After enjoying our 4 nights in Broome we headed due north to explore Cape Levique. Once out of Broome we had to negotiate 89 kilometres of very rough dirt track. A testing mix of dirt and soft sand with constant corrugations. In spite of this, we were amazed by the number of cars travelling up and down this road. WA tourism is certainly booming! Once we got to the end of the 89k the road turned back to tar for the rest of the trip north, with dirt roads off to the sides.

Our first stop was at the Aboriginal community of Beagle Bay. Here we visited Sacred Heart Church which was built in 1918 by the German priests, brothers and local indigenous people, modelled on a black and white photograph of a village church in Germany. The interior is beautifully decorated with an amazing display of shells, in particular rows and rows of mother of pearl shells. The shells are everywhere – the altar area, the windows, the floors, the walls. It was quite a sight to behold.

We continued on our way till we reached our camping spot – Whale Song Campground. After negotiating our way along a VERY rough track (Ginnie was travelling with a bit of an upset tummy so especially found the whoop dee woos interesting!) we arrived at this little oasis. A cafe in the middle of nowhere and a bush camping area up on the headland overlooking the beautiful bay called Middle Lagoon. Ginnie enjoyed the view from the comfort of her bed for the afternoon and Markus ventured down to the beach to catch a decent Trevally. The toilet and shower had been set up with great charm and artistic flair, decorated again with beautiful shells.

The track into Whalesong – glad we didn’t have to turn around or pass another vehicle!

Th view from our Whalesong campsite of Middle Lagoon

The next morning we continued north right to the tip to Cape Levique where we stayed at Kooljaman (Aboriginal for Cape Levique). A great spot right on the tip with east beach to one side and west to the other. We made the most of both first having a swim and a fish at east beach.

In the afternoon we experienced a Giant Tides Tour from Cygnet Pearl Farm. The Kimberley Coast experience giant tropical tides of up to 13m. Much to Markus’ delight we started on a Sea Legs boat – a boat with wheels that drives on land into the water and then raise up once you enter the water.

Sealegs in action. Seen these on the Pittwater in Sydney too.

We were then transferred to our big tour boat – twin 250 horse power V6 outboards. She got up and flew!

We were taken out to the ancient Buccaneer Archipelago to experience the thrill of the force of the rushing tropical tides. We were surrounded by whirlpools, up eddies, side eddies, sections where the water appears to be flowing backwards. Right next to King Island there was cascading water over rocks causing pressure pools and surges. A great experience of the force of nature.

The boat took us past Long Arm Point and a local tour guide Jubby, explained to us about some of life in his Aboriginal Community. The significant ceremonies that occurred on the beach area and how much of their life still includes living off the land. He also helped us to spot numerous turtles and many birds.

Can you see “bulldog rock”?

We finished our day with watching another magnificent sunset over the Indian Ocean. Our last for this trip 😦 Tomorrow we begin our journey east.

Sunset at West Beach, Cape Levique